Light Paintings
Workshop at the Ranch
January, 2003 Edition

A Light Painting is simply a photograph taken
with a timed exposure using a mobile, constant light source to
illuminate the scene.
The light painting technique creates a bold,
dramatic style of lighting far different from conventional strobes.
Originally I used light painting primarily for small product shoots
and still lifes, but found that the technique could be modified
for use outdoors and even with live subjects.
The photograph is taken in almost complete darkness.
Total control over exposure is essential. While the shutter is
open, a mobile light source is used to illuminate only those objects
or subjects chosen to create a complete picture.
Sound impossible? Here is an example:
What I will
use:
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Camera:
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Nikon D100 (Great file size, Noise reduction
mode during timed exposures, Affordable) |
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Lens:
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Nikkor 17-35mm AF |
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Tripod:
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Bogen (Any sturdy tripod will work, but camera
movement elimination is essential) |
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Light Source:
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Calumet's "Hose Master" Mobile
Light Source |
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Exposure:
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20 seconds @ f16, ISO 200 |
Before you begin:
Set up your scene, still life, etc. Place your
camera at the desired position, check focus. Expose one frame
of your scene without any illumination from your light source,
and check the LCD for stray light that may have polluted the scene.
I do not want random light from doors or windows. The image on
the screen should be dark and well underexposed. As I create a
Light Painting, I will use the LCD screen as my light meter to
study where the light is recorded onto my image.
Now, lets make
an image:
I want this picture of a 1953 fly rod and fishing
net to have a soft, golden light feel. Light Painting is a perfect
technique for this.
I open the shutter for the 20 second exposure.
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Step 1: I project 3 seconds of light onto
the fly. I then take 2 seconds to reposition my light source. |
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Step 2: I project 3 seconds on the reel.
I then take 2 seconds to reposition my light source. |
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Step 3: I project 4 seconds on the handle.
I then take 2 seconds to reposition my light source. |
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Step 4: I project 4 seconds on the net. The
20 seconds is up and the shutter closes. |
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This is the image, one frame lasting 20 seconds
with light illuminating the parts of the scene I want to reveal
out of darkness. |
Examine each image using the LCD screen, Nikon's
histogram and "flashing highlights". It will take several
exposures to achieve the correct distance/ intensity of light
and the total time/ time of exposure you illuminate each part
of the picture.
As you project the light you can achieve soft
light and edges by moving the light source slightly, or a hard
light and edges by holding the light source steady. I tend to
like a soft look so I constantly move the light source in a small
circular motion.
Here
is an example outdoors of a 30 second exposure at f4 and ISO 400
using two 2 million candle power portable flood lamps and walking
though nearly two acres of barn and coral. I set my exposure for
the sky so as to reveal both a silhouette of the Tetons and the
star field with the Big Dipper. This image was made one hour after
sunset.
Light painting is not a technique mastered overnight.
It will take many attempts and numerous hours to teach yourself
how to achieve correct exposures and a stylistic look.
| Each month I will be teaching techniques and sharing
information about photography. I hope to address not only
how images are made, but also aspects of business and the
industry. I hope you find the time to log on each month here
at "Workshop at the Ranch" If you have a question
or comment about an area of photography not covered yet in
Workshop at the Ranch, contact me
to suggest a topic for a future issue. |
* For additional examples of Light Painting,
go to Gallery West/
Light Painting